Ellie Cross Falls Off Of Her Tiny World

One small human gets paid by the federal government to do strange activities in Malaysia.

Monday, February 11, 2008

Freshly Squeezed Words

It seems the time is ripe for sharing some sentences…


The epicenter of my personal universe has officially shifted to Sekolah Menengah Kebangsaan Tengku Mahmud, 22200 Besut, Terengganu, Malaysia. (This also serves as my mailing address).


It is a fascinating reality for me to explore: being a peachy- pink- skinned American in this dominantly Muslim country, while relevant wars continue to fester within other borders nearby. Malaysia is composed of multiple clashing and compatible elements. Malays, Chinese, Indians, and others (listed in order of population) co-exist here, causing foods to blend, languages to infiltrate, and traditions to seep into each other...all resting on top of some rather silent racial tensions. Meanwhile the economy swells, chafing against religion, and filling TV/computer screens, mouths, eyes, and minds with shiny foreign ideas. Kuala Lumpur illustrated this so clearly, neon flashing electric fantasy shops, restaurants, and hotels share zip codes with piles of molding apartments. “Developing nation,” is the official term for this. Developing into what?

As for me, the peachy-pink person… (Humans with this complexion are referred to as “mat salleh” here. The origin of the term is debatable, but my favorite theory is that around the turn of the 20th century Malay ports were filled with drunken rowdy European boat crews, whose strange singing and general disorderliness quickly earned them the title “mad sailor,” which eventually relaxed into “mat salleh” and grew to encompass all white-type people). I am a very grateful little mat salleh. I inhabit a rather large apartment amidst over 200 adolescent Malaysian females. Living here is like a self-esteem boost on steroids. At least once an hour, I am told I am very beautiful or that I have a nice voice. At first the girls knocked on my apartment door extremely frequently to tell me such things (or to interview me for school projects), but I put up a white board outside my room to filter such affections. I now wake up to comments like: “I love you like a sister.” This extreme love would be purely sweet if it wasn’t for the creepy colonial history and wide-spread racial sickness that underlies these interactions. I am trying to find ways to address these issues, but will start with the basics—dishing serious love back at these giggling people. I want to work with the art teacher to do various poster projects, asking the students to make posters that encourage healthy habits (refraining from cigs and drugs, apparently a problem here), urge recycling and other earth-ball-loving activities (they don’t recycle at the school, but that’s one of my side-missions), and promote self-esteem. A large mural is also in order.

My actual job here is to teach English to 13/14 year-olds, a motive that I constantly feel conflicted about. It is a tricky sticky thing, instructing a colonized people in the colonizers’ language. I have justified the act by mixing peaceful, environmental, loving, and other revolutionary messages into my grammar lessons. I played Dylan’s “Blowin’ In The Wind,” (with a lyrics sheet with many words blanked out that they had to fill in as they listened) and we discussed war and freedom. They were moderately interested, but soon asked me if I had any other songs on my Ipod, ones that were not old and were not about peace. The Backstreet Boys, Avril Levine, My Chemical Romance, Lincoln Park, 50-Cent, and Britney are all pretty big here. Still, I overheard some students singing the song together a few days later, so at least I’m promoting Dylan overseas.

Other highlights in my life include: extreme amounts of stray cats (although it is mating season and therefore my house is filled with strange horrible noises that sound like small babies are being tortured…apparently this is where kittens come from?),


mangoes/new delightful fruits (dragon fruit makes the crazy purple juice),
Chinese New Year and Chinese people in general,
insanely sweet and strange food (like this ice cream filled hot dog that Jackie is enjoying),

murdering massive amounts of mosquitoes,
kind Malaysians that take me on delightful missions/track me down to invite me to tea,
proximity to ocean,

and the rampant custom of eating every 15 minutes.

Low-lights: adjusting to conservative gender divisions,
tiny anchovy fish sneaking into everything I eat and staring at me with pathetic pleading eyes,

the host of frightening mannequins that inhabit most shops,

and the massive spider that invaded my house and stubbornly refused to die for an hour.

Besides my epic battle with the spider, I have conquered several small but serious fears in the past few days: 1. Singing in public. I found myself in charge of an assembly of over 300 15-year-olds with nothing to entertain them except for my vocal cords, so I taught them a couple songs. Now, I hear students singing “I like to eat eat eat apples and bananas” wherever I go. 2. Bike riding. I have never been very graceful on two-wheels and now it is my main transportation, specifically a superb silver bike with a large basket. It is very Wizard of Oz-esque. 3. The clarinet. This instrument and I have a turbulent past: I can remember purposely breaking my mouth-reeds in middle-school so that I could avoid embarrassing myself by my strange squeaking performances. Yet, I am now relearning to play as I have somehow joined the school band? Mostly, though, I am just grateful there are so many incredible new people in my life, especially my mentor, host family, students, and new friends like Suria. Mad love to all superb people, keep me updated on your adventures.

Suria, with her favorite kitten, Prince.

8 Comments:

Blogger Jackie said...

Looooove!
i am so happy that you finally caved! i went to the primary school today and it was as if someone sent me a whole ball of sunshine. My little friends who i biked with apparently spread my name around so there were a million kids shouting "jackie" from all over the place. you have to come visit i swear they are the cutest things you will ever see!
peeeeaaaccee

February 11, 2008 at 12:34 PM  
Blogger Unknown said...

Hi Ellie!
Your blogging has filled me with joy and happiness! Oh to live vicariously through your stories is an honor indeed. Things are splendid in oakland (splokland in oakland?? i wish it were a saying) and i wish that we could co-exist on a alternate plane that somehow connected our two houses. lots of love,
lily

February 11, 2008 at 12:44 PM  
Blogger Sarah J said...

i especially love the description of your blog. it is SO true. i miss you.

February 11, 2008 at 1:13 PM  
Blogger kidsonbikes said...

elliiiiiiiieee,
i am very interested in what you're doing!!! sounds like an experience! Makes me want to travel again and aghain and afghan. if you ever want to see what I'm up to, yes, I keep up a blog as well. spreadrelax.blogspot.com

peace! -tyler tyle eryl

February 12, 2008 at 4:33 AM  
Blogger Hpoole said...

Ellie! It's so good to hear from you. We are making a new mural! Perhaps you could send Lisa or I some inspired art to put on it? The theme is how the Motley connects to things globally, i think....

:) holly

February 12, 2008 at 8:10 AM  
Blogger Anita said...

Ellie! Sounds like you are doing well. And I'm glad that I'm not the only one mass-killing mosquitoes! Beautiful pictures. I'm so glad you have a blog and that I learn about your adventures in Besut. Take care girl and keep in touch!

February 12, 2008 at 3:56 PM  
Blogger bri said...

hahaaaaaa, you magical being. you make me giggle and spread love all over the world.

February 12, 2008 at 4:13 PM  
Blogger Saruken Sara said...

Fantastic pictures, Miss Ellie! Glad you're safe and planting seeds of different perspectives over there. :)

February 14, 2008 at 6:24 AM  

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